- Dylan Tang
Louis Vuitton 早秋2021男裝「不要讓日常工作定義自己」/ “Don’t let your day job define you” Louis Vuitton Pre-Fall 2021
法國時尚品牌Louis Vuitton推出了2021早秋男裝的全新Lookbook。儘管春天還未到來，但是跨越季節產出創意，一直都是這個產業背負的原罪。而譁眾取寵的影像現在也已經失去被人捧手心的高度，換言之，所有時裝系列的背後都得要有一個夠讓人信服的概念，才有辦法在尚未平息的時尚寒冬中生存。
Louis Vuitton的2021年早秋男裝，調查了變革中之既有體制的世俗著裝規定。男裝藝術總監Virgil Abloh在持續將菁英定則演變成包容性象徵的過程中，研究了常態的奢華以及在2020年後之社會中符合常態的含義。早秋男裝是以新價值支持舊定則，描繪出包羅萬象之漸進式傳統的舒適感：重新調整世俗穿著，以適應新世界的紀律。
每一季Virgil Abloh都會在Louis Vutiton 推出新系列時將自己的《Virgil Abloh生字簿》道出兩句讓人審思的兩句話，這次的早秋系列則是以「從虛構中分離時尚」以及「不要讓日常工作定義自己」貫穿整個系列。這兩句話在這次的早秋系列中可以在毛衣的鑲嵌花紋上、雕刻在短身皮外套上看到，以及寫在使用獨特布料製作的外套上，當外套淋雨時，這兩句話就會浮現。
早秋2021系列細節
這次得特別留意的必備單品是以狂熱的慶典表現，例如採用一片紮染Monogram印花塗繪的西裝、以不對稱Monogram皮塊重組的海軍大衣，以及沿著袖子浮雕著科技風路易威登標誌的短大衣。西裝是透過連帽或拉鍊外套，或全牛仔布的外套實現新變化，而晚宴裝則是透過中間夾層展現出裝飾性規則。休閒服部分則是以傳統樣式為基礎，例如短身外套、對襟針織衫、襯衫等，以褪色及扭曲等手法重新詮釋經典的Damier鹽印花紋。
在珠寶方面，將經典之掛鏈單品的尺寸放大擴充，再加上蛋白石做為裝飾，搭配現有的金屬質感。除古巴鏈外，本系列同時推出裝飾著地球和行李箱吊飾的環遊世界（Around the World）項鍊與手環。
本次男裝系列引進了全新的側背包形狀，搭配招牌金屬鉚釘和皮革邊角，而全新的信差包則是採用灰褐色Monogram詮釋實用主義，並以搶眼顏色LV字母的橡膠底座展現。最後是一系列同色調黑色或深綠色的手袋，刻印著3D Monogram花紋，生動呈現出路易威登最經典的款式。
French fashion house Louis Vuitton unveiled a Lookbook of menswear Pre-Fall 2021. Although spring has not yet arrived, producing creativity across seasons has always been the industry's responsibility. The sensational image has now lost its importance. In other words, all fashion collections must have a convincing concept behind them to survive the unquenched winter of fashion.
For the Pre-Fall 2021 Men’s Collection, Louis Vuitton investigates the mundane dress codes of an establishment in evolution. In his ongoing transformation of elitist codes into symbols of inclusivity, Men’s Artistic Director Virgil Abloh studies normalcy's luxury and what conforming to its means in post-2020 society. Underpinning old codes with new values, the collection portrays the comfort of progressive conventionality inclusive to all: the mundane wardrobe re-appropriated for new world order.
“Separate fashion from fiction” and “Don’t let your day job define you” archive quotes from the Vocabulary according to Virgil Abloh published seasonally as part of his Louis Vuitton practice; adorn garments throughout the collection. They appear as intarsia on a sweater, debossed on a leather blouson, and in outerwear on a unique fabric where the words become visible when the garment comes in contact with rain.
Pre-Fall 2021 details
The unavoidable items in this collection are made from the conventional staple pieces of the men’s wardrobe are approached with riotous celebration. For instance, suits daubed in tie-dye galaxy monogram print, a caban restructured with an asymmetrical monogram leather panel, and a peacoat embossed with a techy Louis Vuitton logo along the sleeve. New takes on suits materialise with hooded or zipped jackets or in all-denim, while the decorative codes of eveningwear are evoked through the mid-layer. In casualwear, the conventional wardrobe's bastions – the blouson, the cardigan, the shirt – are conveyed in a Damier salt print, fading and distorting the classic motif.
The signature chain-link pieces magnify in size and expand with opal finishes alongside existing metal textures in jewellery. Next to Cuban chains, the collection introduces Around the World necklaces and bracelets with globe and trunk pendants.
The collection introduces a new sling bag shape with signature metal rivets and leather corners, while a new messenger bag materialises in Macassar monogram with a utilitarian rubber base forged in pop-coloured LV letters. Finally, a series of leather bags in tonal black, animating some of the house’s most classic shapes.
