• Dylan Tang

J.W. Anderson x UNIQLO 時尚與民主的對話/ J.W. Anderson x UNIQLO Conversation between Fashion and Democracy


「英國現在正在創造一個不尋常的歷史,而身處在現在的我著實被影響著。」

設計師 Jonathan Anderson 對於英國的脫歐公投這樣子回應;英國的脫歐公投,使得都市人與郊區人開始產生裂痕,尤其在倫敦特別明顯;「這真的很奇怪,因為一個城市跟自己的國家開始產生分裂」

Anderson 心中,民主與英國風情的事物總是佔了很大的一部份的空間,而一個英國設計師與日本知名品牌Uniqlo 合作發表的最新系列卻是最適合解釋這樣子的說法。

這個系列充滿著色彩以及Anderson本身設計中常見的元素,在這個秋冬系列裡頭,Jonathan Anderson 總共推出了三十三件單品,包含了長版大衣、格子襯衫...等;這個萬眾矚目的聯名系列將在九月十九號可以在店裡買到,價錢落在 £14.90 - £139.90 中間。

「對我而言,這個系列就是我認為民主的時尚」

「這是一個在正常狀態下的極力探索,當我跟Uniqlo開始合作時,的確有很多事情不斷的挑戰著我,而且也讓我開始想著我平常到底都穿什麼樣的衣服。」這位在 LVMH集團底下,為西班牙皮件品牌 LOEWE 擔任設計總監的 Jonathan Anderson 這樣說。「這個系列非常的真實而非華而不實;自從我加入LOEWE,我常常對於時尚的基本元素感到質疑,而且我發現,如果我沒有這些問題產生的話,那麼我也不可能撐起LOEWE設計總監的職位。」

Anderson 對於文化的重要性具有這樣子的敏銳度,他說:「我們即將要渡過一個市場抓不住消費者的巨大挑戰;Uniqlo 是一個非常充滿文化的品牌,Converse 和 J.W. Anderson 則像是文化的激進份子,Loewe 則是在文化與工藝上佔有地位。」

「我完全相信『所有的品牌都有文化上的重要地位』

不論你是簡單的還是複雜的,你都是因為『創造』而被賦予文化的『價值』

“I feel like where we are today in Britain has really affected me. Britain is going through a very odd moment in its history,” says Jonathan Anderson, reflecting on the UK’s Brexit referendum, which revealed a deep fracture between urbanites, especially in London, and their rural counterparts. “It’s a very odd moment when a city splits away from a country.”

Britishness and democracy were very much on Anderson’s mind as he developed the collection he is here to unveil: a British heritage-inflected line developed in collaboration with the Japanese apparel giant Uniqlo, best known for its colourful, well-designed basics. The autumn/winter range, which launches on September 19, is composed of 33 pieces, including double-breasted trench coats, tartan jackets, Fair Isle sweaters and striped school scarves. Prices start at £14.90 for a graphic t-shirt and top out at £139.90 for outerwear.

“For me, the point of doing this collaboration was that I believe in democracy in fashion,” says Anderson, who is the creative director of LVMH-owned Spanish luxury label Loewe, as well as the founder of his avant-garde namesake line J.W. Anderson, but whose own attire often consists of sneakers, blue jeans and a sweatshirt. “It was also an exploration of normality. When I started working on Uniqlo, it really challenged me in a different way. It was the first time I started reflecting on what I actually wear.”

“Instead of being the fantasy of a character, it’s the reality of a character,” he continues. “Since I joined Loewe, I have questioned the fundamentals of luxury. I don't think I would have been able to do Loewe without questioning every single aspect of it.”

Anderson also stresses the importance of culture. “We’re going through this period where consumers are challenging the way we buy and the market hasn’t caught up,” he says. “Uniqlo is a very cultural brand. I see Converse as a cultural agitator — and J.W. Anderson the same. Loewe I see as craft and culture.”

“My whole belief is that all brands have a cultural responsibility to what they do. No matter how simple or complex it is, you have to create something which has cultural value.”

English original from BOF

Mandarin translated by James Dylan

#JWAnderson #Uniqlo #AW17 #Crossover #Menswear #Womenswear

© 2016 by TAIKER MAGAZINE

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