• Dylan Tang

為自己設計;J.W. Anderson 2018春夏男裝/ Not for les autres; J.W. Anderson SS'18 collection


J.W. Anderson 的2018春夏男裝將場地從倫敦時裝週轉移到了歷史悠久的 Pitti Uomo;這一次Jonathan Anderson 受邀在義大利- 佛羅倫斯的知名男裝週發表最新設計,而這也是他首次發表 ‘自己主觀的設計’ 。

“時尚不應該賣弄”

- Jonathan Anderson 設計師

設計總監 Jonathan Anderson 在最新一季的男裝裡,將重心從市場取向的設計轉回到自我意識的發展,或許每個設計師都有將自己的意識摻入在自己設計服裝裡,但是Anderson 這一次更是挑戰了在男裝主流市場的義大利活出自己的態度。

男性時裝在市場上一直都以一個固定的形式在進行,因為不管在顏色的選用上還是設計的款式上,都不是跳不出舒適圈,而是市場接受度一直給著無形的框架;不過在男性時裝重鎮的佛倫倫斯,Jonathan Anderson 將最新的系列屏除掉西裝模型,而是將更多舒適的、男性愛戴的服裝直接衝擊刻板印象。

“ 而這也是我第一次將設計的重心轉移到我自己個人身上,有點像與我自己的對話”

- Jonathan Anderson 設計師

J.W. Anderson的2018春夏男裝設計重點為:輕薄大衣、寬版牛仔褲、丹寧短褲、橫條上衣、棉質短褲以及經典Anderson 經典的毛衣;除了在毛衣上依然看得到品牌名字的縮寫字樣(J.W.),這一次更與 Converse 進行了品牌合作,將人字拖附上閃亮的細節,以及在帆布鞋上呼應這次服裝的顏色。

Jonathan Anderson 從初試啼聲以來就是被譽為- 鬼才設計師的天才,而這一次他也不負眾望地再次重重的擊中時尚產業,因為他這次不為他人設計而是為自己設計。

“(我)設計的牛仔褲靈感來自於我穿好幾年的那一件牛仔褲 ”

- Jonathan Anderson 設計師

J.W. Anderson unveiled Spring/Summer 2018 collection at Pitti Uomo rather than London Fashion Week Men's. Jonathan Anderson was invited by the well-known event where located in Florence, Italy and this season is his first 'personal and subjective design'.

“no-fuss fashion basic-ness”

- Jonathan Anderson

Jonathan Anderson, creative director of J.W. Anderson, put his conscious to latest menswear design and abandoned the consequence of market reaction. His attitude of fashion design has been highlight during his show at Pitti Uomo.

Market of menswear has always been stuck in an invisible bubble. Either the choice of colour of the silhouette of mens', the frame is always there. However, Anderson seems like he wasn't give a sake of that, he got rid out of the stereotype of menswear, instead, he injected more comfort outfits and casual-styles to Ptti Uomo.

“ I think this is the first season I've tried everything on myself. It was like going back into yourself.”

- Jonathan Anderson

The garments of his spring/summer 2018 is about: Summer Trenches, Wild-leg Jeans, Denim Shorts, Sweatshirts, Breton T-Shirts, Chinos and Sweaters emblazoned with his JW initial logo. Furthermore, the collaboration with Converse has showcased the Glittery Sneakers and Beige Suede colour.

From the beginning of his career, Jonathan Anderson is always the megastar in this industry and he doesn't disappoint us through his Spring/Summer collection. Perhaps, as he said, 'It was like going back into yourself'.

“(I) made jeans based on ones I've had for years. ”

- Jonathan Anderson

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