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Dylan Tang

「咆哮的二十年代」江詩丹頓重現經典 AMERICAN 1921腕錶/ Vacheron Constantin recreated The iconic American 1921 watch

瑞士頂級腕錶品牌江詩丹頓(Vacheron Constantin) 為了紀念American 1921腕錶問世100周年,重新打造了1921年僅生產了24枚的American 1921腕錶,並將「咆哮的二十年代」(Roaring Twenties) 透過精湛傳統製錶工藝再現在2021年。

為了再現一個世紀前的手工製錶傳統,製錶師必須運用由歷史傳承部門典藏的古董工具,包括:19世紀末的平面車床,用於忠實還原錶殼部件;以及19世紀下半葉的圓角機,用於修正輪齒的輪廓和直徑。此外還需要運用18世紀的立式鑽孔配件,為機芯主夾板鑽孔;以及20世紀初的沖心鏨,將寶石軸眼嵌入底座。除了這些古董機器,製錶師還特別研製了一系列工具,例如,仿照20世紀初的樣式而特別訂製的銑刀和鉚接夾具,巧妙地重現了百年前的古老工序和傳統技藝。

新款腕錶的每一處細節均經過悉心雕琢,確保忠實延續原作的獨特風格,就連錶帶也不例外,搭載由修復工坊採用與原作相同的18K 3N黃金材質特別打造的針扣式錶扣。致敬1921年的「腕間藝術」這枚獨一無二的複刻之作,悉數保留了原型錶款的原創特色,彰顯出還原歷史的嚴謹態度。

這一新作巧妙重現了1920年代的社會和文化風貌。當時,「咆哮的二十年代」正拉開帷幕,蓬勃生機與自由之風迅速席捲美國和歐洲。腕錶的別致設計,展現出江詩丹頓在這一時代背景下自由勃發的風格創意。在那個年代,品牌創作了一系列形態各異的錶殼造型,生動詮釋了「classic with a Twist」的製錶風範。

江詩丹頓從零開始,再製經典歷史名作American 1921絕品腕錶,紀念這一標誌性傑作問世100週年。從11法分的Nouveau 機芯,到裝飾精美並配有豐富外部零件的金質錶殼,American 1921絕品時計忠實地再現了百年前古董原作的所有原創特徵。這一精密複雜和前所未有的專案彙集了品牌修復工坊經驗最豐富的製錶大師與歷史傳承部門的專家團隊。在歷時一年的探索中,他們運用古董工具和如今已被遺忘的古老技藝,開啟了一次激動人心的人文與技術探索之旅,最終呈現出一枚獨一無二的時計傑作,彰顯了江詩丹頓傳承品牌歷史積澱、對豐富傳統製錶技藝的不渝追求。

 

To celebrate the 100th anniversary of the American 1921, Vacheron Constantin has faithfully created this emblematic model from the Roaring Twenties while safeguarding its original attributes. The American 1921 had only 24 pieces of the reference dated 1921 were originally manufactured. Therefore, Vacheron Constantin recollect the Roaring Twenties by its flawless traditional skills


In order to reproduce the hand-crafted operations performed back in the day, artisans had to work with some historical tools from Vacheron Constantin’s Heritage. A late 19th century facing lathe enabled them to faithfully recreate the elements composing the case; a rounding-up (topping) tool from the latter half of the 19th century served to modify the profile of wheel teeth and to adjust their diameter. Watchmakers used an 18th century upright drilling accessory to drill through the movement’s mainplate. To drive the jewels into their settings, they resorted to an early 20th century staking tool. These vintage machines were complemented by tools specially made for this project, such as custom-made milling-cutters and riveting tools in line with those of the early 20th century, enabling the artisans to work in a manner attuned to that period and closely reproducing the operations and development techniques of the time.


Because it retains all the original properties of the original American 1921, this unique, identically recreated timepiece reflects a historian's approach. It subtly mirrors the social and cultural context of the 1920s, the effervescence and the wind of freedom blowing across the United States and Europe at the dawn of the Roaring Twenties. Its distinctive design illustrates the stylistic creativity of Vacheron Constantin which revelled in expressing its “classic with a twist” style through multiple case shapes.


Vacheron Constantin continues to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the American 1921 by recreating this emblematic model from scratch. From the 11-ligne Calibre Nouveau to the gold case along with the decorations and exterior components, the American 1921 Pièce unique watch reproduces the original properties of its ancestor created a century ago.

This highly complex and unprecedented process involved the most experienced watchmakers in the Restoration workshop and the Vacheron Constantin Heritage team, who spent a year reviving old tools and forgotten know-how in the course of a passionately exciting human and technical adventure. The result is an exceptional one-of-a-kind timepiece, a symbol of the Maison’s attachment to its heritage and to the continuous enrichment of traditional know-how.



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