• Dylan Tang

三宅一生新哲學和旅行新意義/ Issey Miyake's new philosophy and meaning of travel


經歷了令人不知所以然的一年,全新的2021當然也得抱著對時裝不一樣的態度才能在新一季注入人生的新意義。1971年成立的三宅一生(Issey Miyake),自從問世後就成為各大時裝愛好者無法忽略的焦點;畢竟那個時代西方時裝豪門幾乎壟斷了所有市場,但也是因為實力夠堅強,這個日本設計師品牌正式席捲時尚首都巴黎,也奠定至今無人能取代的地位。


設計師哲學的新褶學

隨著設計師近藤悟史(Satoshi Kondo)上任後,三宅一生的品牌便被注入了新的活力和觀點。例如在疫情時代中2020秋冬發表時,近藤悟史發現每一箱運送至巴黎的箱子因為當季時裝過於龐大而產生過多的箱子,不僅消耗空間,同時也正消耗著各種資源。因此在全新的2021春夏系列,新褶學『UNPACK THE COMPACT』的靈感才因此誕生。 但話說回來,人們以往習以為常的三宅一生「縐褶」,現在轉換成「折疊」的形式新穎地呈現在大眾面前。這話說新穎卻又沿襲傳統的做法,不僅讓人安心也進一步的傳遞設計師解構服裝又重組的新哲學,更跳脫眾人對三宅一生的框架和思維。

踏出家門的新意義

“旅行”這兩個字或許短期內還不會成為大家熱門討論的話題,但在炎炎夏日到來之前,踏出家門為自己準備好隨時可穿脫的服裝仍無法避免。如同上述提出的設計師新哲學,所謂旅行的意義在這裡似乎也被冠上了新的衣裳。


結合「穿著、折疊、攜帶」於一體的「TOGO-純色織旅」系列,俐落的線條和剪裁乍看之下像是一件抽象的概念式服裝,經過折疊、拉上拉鍊後,即可收納成旅行收納袋的大小,融合實用和實穿於一體,為隨身包包或者國內旅行時的行李箱騰出更多空間。此外,以聚酯纖維製成的服裝具有形狀記憶功能,具有防水和抗皺特性,專為日常使用和始終在旅行中的人們而設計。設計師近藤悟史在這個嚴峻時刻將旅行所需的輕便元素巧妙的結合於服裝之中,讓你不管是否有計畫未來的短旅行,還是出家門穿上最新時裝便能輕易喚起上次旅程的美好記憶。

After a challenging year, the brand new year is coming very soon; hence, if we want to contain our fashionista attitude, I assume we should embrace a different fashion style. Issey Miyake, established in 1971, since then it turned in to an invisible brand. After all, Western fashion houses in that era almost monopolized all markets. Still, it was also because of the strength that this Japanese designer brand was officially swept the fashion capital Paris, and established a position that no one can replace so far.

Designer's new philosophy

Since the designer Satoshi Kondo taking office, Issey Miyake has placed new vitality and perspectives. For example, when this Japanese brand launched the AW20 collection during the epidemic era, Kondo Satoru found that each box shipped to Paris produced too many wastes because of the AW20 ready-to-wear cost too many spaces. Therefore, in the new SS21 collection, the new idea "UNPACK THE COMPACT" was born. However, 'wrinkle' turns to 'folded' isn't easy to upside-down people's mind. But Kondo nailed it! He followed the traditional, which makes people feel the brand's DNA and further conveys the designer's new philosophy of deconstructing and reorganizing clothing and escapes everyone's framework and thinking about Issey Miyake.

The new meaning of travelling

The word "travel" may not become a topic of discussion in the short term, but before the summer arrives, it is still inevitable to step out of the house and prepare clothes that can be put on and taken off at any time. Like the designer's new philosophy aforementioned, the meaning of so-called travel seems to have given to the new collection.


The "TOGO" collection that combines "wearing, folding, and carrying". The clean lines and tailoring look like an abstract conceptual garment at first glance. After folding and zipping, you can store in the size of a travel storage bag. It combines practicality and wearability to make more space for carry-on bags or luggage during domestic travel. Besides, garments made of polyester fibres have shape memory, waterproof and anti-wrinkle properties, and designed for daily use and people who are always travelling. Designer Satoru Kondo is ingeniously combining the light elements required for travel into the clothing to easily evoke it regardless of whether you plan a short trip in the future go out to wear the latest fashion. A good memory of the last trip.



#IsseyMiyake #SS21 #TOGO #SatoshiKondo #Japan

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