看見改革的力量
對時尚產業而言一成不變才是危機，在經過2020年的動盪洗禮，各個品牌也開始探討不同議題。有重新反思定位的、找尋品牌或設計初衷的，更有藉由疫情發揮的，每一個變化或大或小，在此刻都是新的嘗試，希冀從中找到過渡艱困時期的方法。同時這樣的變化，也影響著觀看者，得以去想像未來流行的樣貌。
Celine by Hedi Slimane【重新詮釋新浪漫主義】
作為一個設計師Hedi Slimane絕對是任性而為的，每到一個新品牌就迫不及待的抹除過去在位者的痕跡，像個善妒的人，想要擁有一切。所幸Hedi Slimane風格強烈，數季過後，多數人都只會記得他的系列，如同不曾有過男裝系列的Celine。今年是Hedi Slimane擔綱Celine創意總監的第三年，受限疫情影響，反而激發他在男裝部分更多作為，好比秋冬系列，就加入先前擔任其他品牌設計師時的經驗。把更多的女裝製作技巧帶入，讓細節處理更為可觀，搭配Hedi Slimane向來愛用的纖弱少年模特兒。刻意的模糊性別特質，貫徹了他這20年來所打造的男裝視野。而這也為何不是Celine的男裝，而是Celine by Hedi Slimane的緣故。
Hedi Slimane的設計總離不開「音樂」，甚至可說，這建構了他操刀的多數服裝系列。Celine秋冬男裝的背景音樂「Time Slip」出自The Loom與Hedi Slimane的共同創作，藉由法國行軍鼓的錯落鼓點，傳達出這季的「Teen Knight Poem」主題。展示的場景更是選在曾啟發《美女與野獸》的誕生、並以哥德風和黑、白外觀聞名的香波爾城堡，呼應了Teen Knight的部分。為了把中古世紀的騎士與當代搖滾龐克結合，Hedi Slimane利用荷花領的襯衫來貫穿，添加他過去最喜愛的服裝元素，像是丹寧、鉚丁皮夾克、休閒連帽上衣等。混合剪裁寬鬆的針織衫，還有不可缺少的貼身長褲、格紋大衣，凸顯高端時尚與街頭潮流的交融。
The Power Of Reform
For the fashion industry, immutability is a crisis. After the baptism in the turmoil of 2020, various brands have begun to discuss different topics. There are those who are re-rethinking their positioning, looking for the original intention of the brand or design, and are even taking advantage of the pandemic. Every change, big or small, is a new attempt at this moment, hoping to find a way to transition from the difficult period. At the same time, such changes also affect the audience to imagine what will be popular in the future.
Celine by Hedi Slimane, Reinterpretation of Neo-Romanticism
As a designer, Hedi Slimane is absolutely willful. Whenever he arrives at a new brand, he can’t wait to erase the traces of the incumbents of the past, like a jealous person, wanting to have everything. Fortunately, Hedi Slimane has a strong style. After a few seasons, most people will only remember his collection, just like Celine, who has never had a menswear collection. This year is Hedi Slimane's third year as the creative director of Celine. The limited impact of the epidemic has inspired him to do more in the menswear section, such as the autumn and winter series, adding his previous experience as a designer of other brands. Bringing in more women's clothing making skills to make the details more impressive with Hedi Slimane's slender teenage model that has always been used. The deliberate blurring of gender traits implements his vision of menswear that he has built over the past 20 years. And that’s why this is not Celine's menswear, but Celine by Hedi Slimane. Hedi Slimane's design is always inseparable from "music". It can even be said that this constitutes most of his clothing series.
Celine's autumn/winter men's background music "Time Slip" is from The Loom and Hedi Slimane's co-creation. With the staggered beats of the French marching drum, it conveys the theme of this season's "Teen Knight Poem". The scene on display is selected from Chambord Castle, which inspired the birth of "Beauty and the Beast" and is famous for its gothic style and black and white appearance, echoing the part of Teen Knight. In order to combine medieval knights with contemporary rock and roll punk, Hedi Slimane used a shirt with a lotus collar to run through, adding his favourite clothing elements in the past, such as denim, rivet leather jackets, casual hooded tops and so on. Mixed tailoring and loose-knit sweaters, as well as indispensable close-fitting trousers and plaid coats, highlight the blend of high-end fashion and street trends.
完整內容詳見臺客雜誌第8期
All content is in TAIKER Magazine ISSUE08
