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  • Dylan Tang

Bianca Saunders透過影像跳出自我/ Bianca Saunders AW20, Dancing in the VIDEOLIGHT

英國設計師 Bianca Saunders 的秋冬最新系列,回首了自己血液裡的根,以及小時候隨著音樂起舞時的快樂回憶;在這一次的倫敦男裝週裡,設計師回首了自己小時候常透過錄影帶(VHS)的影像以及裡頭人物的歌聲而手舞足蹈,在這一次的男裝週 Discovery LAB裡頭,Bianca 所挑選的模特兒,都不曾站著停歇過,反而是在每一套服裝之間,都跟隨著這一次的秋冬2020主題「錄像燈光」一樣,在冰冷的一月裡頭,火熱的跳起來。

「這個系列是關於對我背景的反射,關於我的加勒比海黑人背景,我血液裡的根。我時常忽胖忽瘦,因為我對自己的人生失去方向,但也因為如此,我對於性別的玩味,就此反射在我的男裝設計上。」- Bianca Saunders

如同設計師所說,在這個系列裡頭,Bianca 將性別的調查,以及男裝的結構從新組合在一起;而這對於這位不同背景的設計師而言,是一個非常清新且特別的點子。若是說到服裝本身,這一次的丹寧布料與 ISKO 合作,所有的布料都是有機循環豬的產物;而這一次的外套,則是「無釦設計」每一件的外套完全都沒有釦子,並且在肩膀上採用的多層包邊的設計,彷彿回到了真正VHS真正火熱的年代。

除此之外,Bianca 的時裝設計,首次使用了流行文化常見的寶藍色,且與設計師 Hernan Guardamagna 合作,這一位同為英國皇家藝術學院畢業的設計師,不僅讓Bianca Saunders的最新系列增添亮點,也讓我們都再次享受VHS年代的美好,以及深深體會加勒比海人的無限熱情。

The latest Autumn/Winter collection of Bianca Saunders tracked back on the roots in her blood and happy memories of dancing with music when she was a kid. At the London Fashion Week Menswear, the designer looked back on the VHS she used to use as a kid which provided the images and the singing of the characters in it. At the Discovery LAB, during LFWM, the models selected by Bianca have never stood still, but instead consistently dance between each outfit. This time, the theme of "VIDEOLIGHT" has nailed this season. Saunders literally made this cold season warmer than ever.

“This is a collection about my background, about my heritage, about being Black Caribbean. I used distortion, things that curved, and always a play with gender, and how we see masculine clothes. ”- says Bianca

According to the designer, this collection, Bianca brought together the gender survey and the structure of men's clothing; this is a very fresh and special idea for this brand.

If it comes to the clothing itself, this time the denim fabric cooperated with ISKO. All the fabrics are the products of this sustainable denim producer. The coat this time is a “No button show". Each coat has no buttons at all. And the shoulders have covered placket design, these details seem to be back to the era of VHS.

In addition, Bianca introduced pops of colour for the first time, like an electric blue stretch rollneck. Also, she cooperated with designer Hernan Guardamagna who is also graduate of the RCA. The highlights also let us all enjoy the beauty of the VHS era and deeply appreciate the infinite passion of the Caribbean soul.

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