• Dylan Tang

新高級剪裁 Ermenegildo Zegna的春夏22男裝重塑新生/ THE (NEW) SET, Ermenegildo Zegna rewiring the luxury crafting



「主旨是打造輕鬆而不刻意的美學風格」

Alessandro Sartori;Ermenegildo Zegna 藝術總監


在米蘭時裝週裡頭,每一個品牌都會卯足全力將自己的最新時裝以最符合品牌的方式露出,而這時不外乎就會出現商業操作。不論你是充滿理想的理論派,還是務實的實際派,任何一種呈現時尚的方式都沒有對錯。因為只要能夠打造出屬於自己的風格,那麼就賣出了在市場成功的第一步。



Ermenegildo Zegna 的春夏2022男裝大秀剛落幕。從釋出的影片裡能清楚看見這個在阿爾卑斯山發跡的時尚品牌努力地將自己活出新面貌。“新生” 成為他們這一季的設計主體,再適合不過。整個系列的色調以輕巧為主,呈現出如水般淡潤的色彩組合,以方解石的淡灰色、工裝白色、菊石色、樹皮內紋色、礦物綠色和柏樹色,搭配沉穩的深混凝土色和啞光黑色,點綴天青色、工裝藍色、紫水晶色和深藍色等。宛如春天迎接新生命時會看到的顏色。



「我希望在Zegna創造一種以精湛剪裁為基調卻可以與現代世界的生活節奏為伍的微妙平衡感。為此,我一直想要重新詮釋高級成衣剪裁的定義,在賦予身體自由的同時,亦延續Zegna的獨特風格,打造出一系列可輕鬆穿搭而又富有創新力的單品——主旨是打造輕鬆而不刻意的美學風格。」- Alessandro Sartori


非凡的失重感

春夏2022 Ermenegildo Zegna 以非凡的失重感作為品牌特點。這個是為了強調看似厚重、看似多層次的服裝穿起來異常舒適和輕盈。Sartori 特別選用質地輕盈、細密編織的布料,以及薄如紙張的皮革材質,輕鬆勾勒出清晰而精準的版型輪廓。此外超大翻蓋口袋和抽繩設計,則是在這一季中的設計新亮點。

再強調永續發展

除了在剪裁和時裝的輪廓上有新意,這一次的布料則選用以植物纖維材質、混紡面料、針織面料以及時尚永續的面料為主。畢竟,這是“新生”,為現代世界打造無限可能。

全新系列以一段引人入勝的影片拉開帷幕,表現出自由與约束之間充滿張力的碰撞與融合。



“My aim at Zegna is to create an accord between the essence of tailoring…

Effortlessness is the key

- Alessandro Sartori.


In Milan Fashion Week, every brand will make every effort to unveil its latest fashion in the most suitable way for the DNA. Even it has to include some commercial strategies. Because as long as you can enhance your own style, it will be the first step to sell successfully in the market.



Ermenegildo Zegna's Spring/Summer 2022 menswear show just ended. From the released film, we can clearly see that this fashion brand is working hard to bring a new look. THE (NEW) SET has become the concept of its design this season, and it couldn't be more preciseness. This season lightness is ultimately also a chromatic matter, conveyed by the watery colour palette that amalgamates pale notes of calcite, workwear white, ammonite, under bark, mineral green, cypress with calm tones of dark concrete and matt black and lights up with sudden bursts of skylight, utility blue, amethyst, cobalt. Those are obvious colours for Spring and Summer. Quite a design!



“My aim at Zegna is to create an accord between the essence of tailoring, which is our reason for being, and the rhythm of the modern world. What I have done is a rewiring of luxury crafting, following a flow that frees the man while keeping the distinctiveness, offering pieces that are easy to wear as they are inventive. Effortlessness is the key”, says Alessandro Sartori.

An utter sense of lightness

The collection is marked by an utter sense of lightness. Liquid and comfortable silhouettes revolve around collarless kimono shapes, utilitarian chore coats, long dusters, oversized overshirts and a new generation of knitwear. The New Set is an act of translation that takes inspiration from the practicality and pragmatism of workwear to get a progressive spin on tailoring, with magnified details - oversized pocket flaps, augmented drawstrings - making a statement without forsaking function.

#UseTheExisting

Apart from the silhouette, the SS22 Menswear is also sealed by the intermingling of shapes and innovative fabrics where vegetal fibres, new blends, jersey and #UseTheExisting fabrics are core. This is the New Set. A tailored possibility for the modern world. The collection is presented in the form of a film that plays off an energizing juxtaposition of freedom and restraint.


#ErmenegildoZegna #SS22 #Menswear #MFW