• Dylan Tang

延續時代寶藏 路易威登推出新LV²系列/ Rebuild the Legacy, Louis Vuitton unveiled LV2 Collection

儘管時間毫不留情地往前走,但是雋永的年代卻不會因為這樣消逝。50年代、60年代,是西方經濟大爆發的年代。那個年代除了有詹姆士狄恩、馬龍白蘭度、瑪麗蓮夢露,更有垮世代文豪們為文學翻開全新的篇章。因此,許多設計師不斷地將設計靈感回溯至有號稱黃金年代的50年代,除了表達敬意外,說不定也是為了從歷史的痕跡中找出能譜出新樂章的珍稀元素。

法國時裝品牌路易威登又發表了LV² 系列,這個系列延續了男裝藝術總監Virgil Abloh與Human Made創辦人Nigo之間的創作火花,並透過文化交織後的完美創作展現在時裝上。來自日本的Nigo,他的時尚歷程充斥著他深厚的文化底蘊;例如是BAPE的創辦人、Billionaire Boys的共同創辦人,以及Human Made 的品牌創辦人。 他之所以能夠在時尚產業站穩腳步,無非就是他以特定地域特質審視西方男士衣著風格的獨特觀點。

透過Nigo的視角,經典路易威登手袋設計融合日本元素,例如Cruiser信差包上的小絲巾結飾細節象徵日式Furoshiki包袱布服裝;例如另一個大型夏日托特手袋側邊以摺疊結構點綴。一款側背包化形為鴨子的輪廓呈現,強調本系列充滿童趣的靈魂,並同時呈現於琺瑯飾以銀點綴的手工珠寶作品。戒指、耳環、領帶夾、胸針與鑰匙圈以鴨子、老虎與愛心呈現,一條水晶項鍊與古巴鍊手鍊以LV²標誌連接、共享並加乘這個創意對話的前提。

LV² 的全新系列靈感來自西方1950及1960年代的剪裁輪廓與那個時代的日式感性。服裝與配件以軍隊服裝、軍風標誌與傳統服飾,透過形式化的視角觀察詮釋,持續將優雅精緻元素融入日常概念。

深藍色毛衣外套的皮帶呼應日式寬腰帶,條紋Monogram剪裁外套採用綁帶結構,襯衫融合和服元素。跨文化元素與路易威登旅行概念本能的相互交融,這樣的過程呈現於將經典Damier圖樣轉化成郵票形式,展現在紅白襯衫、絨毛外套、與可拆卸式毛衣袖子上。這些設計就像是經典男士衣櫃中的必備服裝,但卻以和服元素相互融合。

早些年的男性時裝或許並沒有像現在充斥著各種風格,但如同一開始所說「儘管時間毫不留情地往前走,但是雋永的年代卻不會因為這樣消逝。」因此,透過不同文化背景間的創意火花,再怎麼平行的線都能編織出美好的景象。同理,時尚產業充斥著各方鬼才的瘋狂創意,但唯有真正交流後才能發展出不一樣的新視野。

Although time moves forward mercilessly, the golden age will not pass away. Just like the 1950s and 1960s were the eras when the Western economy has drastically grown up. In that era, apart from James Dean, Marlon Brando, Marilyn Monroe, and the Beat Generation opened a new chapter in literature. Therefore, many designers continue to trace their design inspiration back to the 50s. In addition to paying tribute to that remarkable ear, it may also be to find the rare elements that can compose a new chapter from history traces.

For Pre-Spring 2022, Louis Vuitton launches its second LV2 collection "Louis Vuitton squared" continuing the creative conversation between Men's Artistic Director Virgil Abloh™ and Nigo®, the founder of the label Human Made. He also formerly founded the brand BAPE, and co-founded the brand Billionaire Boys Club. Why can he stand firmly in the industry? It's because of the inherent tapestry of his fashion upbringing and the geo-specific gaze on the Western men's wardrobe instilled in him from boyhood.


Through the eyes of Nigo®, classic Louis Vuitton bag designs integrate Japanese elements, such as a cruiser bag with a small scarf knotting detail informed by furoshiki wrapping cloths; similarly, a large summer tote features a folded construction on the side. A cross-body bag morphs into the image of a duck, highlighting the playful spirit of the collection likewise expressed in artisanal enamel jewellery pieces with silver finishing.

Here, rings, earrings, tie clips, brooches, and keyrings manifest in the images of the duck, tiger and heart, while a crystal necklace and a Cuban chain bracelet with the LV2 logo cement the shared and squared premise of the creative dialogue.

LV2 cross-pollinates a Western 1950s and '60s' tailoring silhouette with a Japanese sensibility. Garments and accessories native to sartorial tropes, military icons and traditional costume are observed through a decidedly formalised lens, consistently imbuing the casual with a heightened elegance.


These pieces central to the classic men's wardrobe splice with the properties of kimonos: the belt of a navy wool coat nods at the obi, a tailored jacket in striped Monogram features a wrap structure, and shirting is infused with kimono codes. Instinctively, this cultural cross-pollination intersects with the travel territory of Louis Vuitton. The process sees the classic Damier pattern mutate into a post-stamp likeness, exercised on a red and white shirt, a fleece jacket, and detachable jersey sleeves.


Men's fashion in the early years may not have various styles as it is now, but as the same beginning said, "Although time moves forward mercilessly, the golden age will not pass away." Therefore, through different cultures. No matter how parallel the lines are, the creative sparks between the backgrounds can weave a beautiful scene. In the same way, the fashion industry is full of crazy ideas from all walks of life, but only after real exchanges can new horizons be developed.


#LouisVuttion #VirgilAbloh #Nigo #LV2Collection #PreSpring2022 #Menswear