• Graeme Gaughan

時裝哲理;Tourne de Transmission 2018春夏男裝/ Tourne de Transmission Spring/Summer'18


「這裡到處都是裂痕,這也是光為何而來」 Leonard Cohen, Anthem, 1992

我們嘗試著透過歷史的借鏡來讓我們可以在現在躊躇不前的狀態下更好,但是我們真的認為我們有獨自做決定的能力讓我們過得更好嗎?

神經外科醫生 Sigmund Freud 的姪子 Edward L. Bernays 在1928年出版的 『宣言』正是在討論我們為什麼會在這個社會選擇這樣的路。我們有意識自己所選的嗎?還是自然而然走向那條路?抑或者我們天性選擇一條我們會相對輕鬆的路?我們對於名譽的渴望,或許正凌駕我們所知的常識以及我們所學的知識上。而且我們能做的事情正被這些扭曲的感官所挾持著。

這裡有一道隔板,一片細薄隔板;我們卻因此看不清人生

我想透過長版大衣以及其他種類的外衣來觸摸政治上、政策上或者媒體間的那種不透明性;因為大眾媒體教導我們的便是如何讓社會接受這樣子的觀念,而服裝便是一種可交互作用的物料,一般來說,這也是為什麼我們都會有個人風格服裝的原因。

最後,對於服裝上的解構就是社會上分歧的存在,跟每個產業過度的交織著。而旁邊的道路正在建造著,與我們經歷著的苦痛,不管是輕鬆或者嚴苛都將因為我們穿著的服裝而被我們遺忘。

謊言使你迷失

''There is a crack in everything. That's how light gets in'' - Leonard Cohen, Anthem, 1992

We tend to look at history for references in order to gain a greater perspective on how current situations may progress. But do we really understand our ability to make independent decisions and inform change for the better?

The works of Sigmund Freud's nephew Edward L Bernays and his 1928 book ''Propaganda'' prompted the questions into why as a society we choose the paths we do. Is it a conscious, free decision or are we guided in every way, beyond what we would deem comfortable? Our thirst for acceptance, repetition - sometimes beyond common sense or learning, are unwavering; And our ability to be coerced, guided and thus divided by distorted perceptions.

Politics and politicians in particular seem to not mind borrowing from the past and set our manifestos that are repackaged ideals. We are made to feel that we are progressing when we are not.

There is a layer, a veneer on life that we are not meant to see through.

I wanted to touch on the lack of transparency within policy, politics and media by adding layers of transparent materials to classic items such as trench coats and other outerwear. There are additional elements of interchangeable text that can be changed as the wearer sees fit, alluding to the fact that society accepts or resists what we are media fed, generally changing out perspective based on what suits our personal circumstances at the point.

In addition, deconstructed elements of the garments exist via referencing divisions in society, bound by industry which overpowers and holds everything together. Side panels are opened in the construction process - held together via industrial straps that can be loosened or tightened at the wearers behest... The Lies That Blind.

Photographed by Isabel Infantes (PA Wire)

#TournedeTransmission #LFWM #SS18 #Menswear #FashionWeek

© 2016 by TAIKER MAGAZINE

  • Facebook - Black Circle
  • Twitter - Black Circle
  • Instagram - Black Circle