• Dylan Tang

Nigel Cabourn ‘不論Sean Flynn 發生何事’2018春夏系列/ Nigel Cabourn SS'18 "Whatever Happened To Sean F


(Photographed San Ko)

“Sean 跟我都是反戰人士,而且Sean 想要透過任何不同角度去看戰爭時期發生的所有事情;

當然,這種氛圍讓你感到刺激、興奮以及正在冒險的感覺,但是你要知道,任何一張戰爭時期的照片都代表著反戰的精神,

因為我們間接地透過照片讓你感受到我們反戰的精神。”

-Tim Page 攝影記者

Nigel Cabourn 的2018春夏系列有著無與倫比的特別意義!今年是Nigel 成為設計師的第五十週年,因此和這次五週年的倫敦男裝週相互搭配,可以說是更有意義。

這一次的2018年春夏系列,Nigel 推出了 “真實”系列的第三限量款。這個限量的第三系列命名為「不論 Sean Flynn 發生何事」顧名思義靈感來自 Sean Flynn 以及他的戰地影像記者好友 Tim Page。

透過 Sean Flynn 在越戰時所拍攝的照片,Nigel Cabourn 設計出了一系列中性風格的男裝、女裝;這些都是在倫敦男裝週2018春夏系列裡的重點發表之一。

帶點中性特色的男裝包含了長短褲、外套以及輕薄的大衣;女裝則是有著裙裝、外套以及長褲。這個擁有許多不同系列的品牌,在布料挑選上則是依舊使用了富有戰爭色彩的迷彩布,這些布料都是織品設計師 Riccardo Bruni所設計帶有褪色感藍色與綠色的丹寧與綿交織的面料;為什麼 “真實”系列是Nigel Cabourn 的限量款呢?因為打從這個系列的第一款開始,全部的商品都是製造商 Mackintosh and Blackhorse Lane Ateliers, 從英國本土生產。

“機能與實用性是我選擇製作軍事風格服裝的主要原因,這類型的服裝不管在視覺還是在細節裡都是時裝的全新宇宙;

我不是一個可以忍受戰爭的人,但是這些戰爭時期的特色物件是那麼的雋永,所以我才總是能從烽火時期得到靈感;

這也是為什麼這個系列能夠那樣的產生共鳴,因為Sean 嘗試將所有在越戰時期發生的事情透過旁敲側擊的方式來展現故事”

- Nigel Cabourn 設計師

除了限量款式的發表之外,“工作服” 也是Nigle 一直以來的特色設計,這次2018春夏系列的另一個系列;LYBRO,這個系列總共擁有十八件的中性設計,充滿著六零年代以及越戰時期的混合風格。

“We were all anti-war and Sean wanted to capture all angles, he wanted to see what it was like for the other side fighting the war effort and how they were affected by it. Sure, you get off on war. It’s an incredible rush, it’s sexy, and it’s got adventure. But any good war picture is an anti-war frame and we were indirectly widening people’s perspective through our images.”

-Tim Page, Photojournalist

Nigel Cabourn unveiled his 'Authentic' third limited edition for Spring/Summer 2018, this collection entitled "WHATEVER HAPPENED TO SEAN FLYNN". Why released his third limited edition in this season? Because Nigel Cabourn has his 50th anniversary as a designer in 2018.

Working closely with Sean Flynn’s best friend and fellow photographer, Tim Page, Nigel has been able to use previously unseen photographs of Flynn and Page taken during the Vietnam War, to create a collection of men’s, women’s and unisex styles. These images also formed part of his LFWM presentation and will feature in a Limited Edition 3 book, which will be released alongside this collection.

Men’s and unisex styles include pants, shorts, jackets and a lightweight coat with the women’s collection featuring dresses, jackets and pants. As ever, hardware details and fabric and are key and Nigel has worked closely with international textile designer, Riccardo Bruni to produce special fabrics. These include double sided camo with faded ‘nam green one side and faded blue on the other, which features strongly throughout the collection as well as cotton mesh, double-sided cotton gabardine and denim. As usual with his Authentic brand it has been made in England, in this case by Mackintosh and Blackhorse Lane Ateliers.

“Utility and function are what draws me to military clothing, the attention to detail is always incredible. These garments are built to last a lifetime and are timeless in so many ways but it’s important to mention that although I’m very much inspired by military clothing I don’t in any way condone war. This is why this special edition is so relevant, since Sean was trying to cover all sides of the story and expose the truth of what was happening in Vietnam,” says Nigel.

Furthermore, Nigel's wok wear line "LYBRO SS18" is also purchasable after London Fashion Week Men's SS18. This collection has 18-piece collection of unisex styles based on military issue clothing from the Vietnam War period mixed with funkier 1960s styles.

Photo Courtesy of Nigel Cabourn

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