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  • Dylan Tang

GANNI 2018春夏女裝系列 ‘‘全球公民’’/ GANNI Spring/Summer'18 Collection ‘Global Citizen’


“這一季,我的服裝是做給真正的全球公民;我想要為喜歡旅行並且擁有獨立個性的女性製作服裝。

2018春夏是一個傳達快樂氣氛的系列,也是大量的取用九零年代的元素;運動服和班尼頓在當時挑戰偏見以及鼓勵多樣性的廣告。我想透過我富有創意的工作在這個世界上遊走;從斯德哥爾摩到紐約,透過我的全新系列來創造出一個國際間交流的氛圍。我現在不斷的旅行,也不停的受到每一個不同的城市以及巷弄啟發,在這一個國家邊境慢慢封鎖住的時代裡,我透過的創作讓大家可以繼續的生活再一起、可以繼續一起為生活努力,並且克服因為不同文化所產生的差異。『全球公民』系列就是一個可以代表世界任何角落的最佳主題”

- Ditte Resffstrup (GANNI 創意總監)

Ditte 在這個最新系列裡裡頭分別與不同領域的專家合作,紐約的西伯利亞藝術家及攝影師 Ana Kraš 和來自於斯德哥爾摩的丹寧與運動服裝專家Bengt Thornefors 和 Christopher Svensson。

在顏色的選用上非常大膽地使用了亮橘色、冷調藍,以及失去失去鮮豔色彩的黃色做組合;布料上則選擇了具有梭織提花專利的皮革,以及具有泡泡沙特性的絲。配件上則是使用了大量具有九零年代風格的花朵以及水果。

GANNI的2018春夏系列充滿了花、水果跟粗條紋;你會在擁有梭織提花的裙子上看見橙色的鬱金香,櫻桃印花的T-shirts,以及條紋毛衣、T-shirts、和裙子。這是向 Brit-Pop 的時期致敬,卻也可以依稀看出在《終極追殺令》中納塔莉波曼的造型和瑪丹娜在八零年代全盛時期的打扮;蕾絲、花圈手環以及放蕩不羈的搭配。

在這一個全新系列裡,如何成功表達出Global Citizen 的精髓,就是在造型上有精緻的黃色裙裝搭上有著珠子以及花朵的薄紗;想要更聰明幹練的話則可以選擇西裝外套配上灰色的運動T-shirt;更想偷懶一點的話就是直接穿上印有 Global Citizen 的T-shirt 就可以將這個系列所想要表達的主題完整的融合再一起。

“This season, I was inspired to make a collection for the truly global citizen. I wanted to create clothes for a woman who loves to travel to new places and who has an independent spirit. It’s an upbeat collection, taking cues from 90s sportswear, rave, and the hugely important Benetton ads from the 90s that challenged prejudice and encouraged diversity. I also wanted to work with creatives from around the world, from Stockholm all the way to New York, for a collection that celebrates collaboration and the spirit of international exchange. I’m constantly travelling and constantly inspired by what I see on the streets of different cities around the world. In this moment of closed borders it’s important to think about new ways of living and working together, of overcoming our cultural differences. The Global Citizen represents the best of everywhere.” – Ditte Reffstrup, Creative Director, GANNI

For Spring/Summer 2018, Ditte worked closely with the wonderfully inventive New York-based Serbian artist and photographer Ana Kraš on set design for the show and campaign photography. She also teamed up with Bengt Thornefors and Christopher Svensson from Stockholm, former fashion designers with a specialty in denim and sportswear, for the collection’s repurposed denim items.

The colour palette is a combination of subtle and bold, with bright orange, cool blue, and the palest of yellows making an appearance. Fabrics include woven jacquard, structured patent leather, summery seersucker silk and a luxurious, sporty jersey with a subtle sheen that is also used on shoes and sunglasses.

Accessories continue the floral and edible theme, with fruits and flowers variously adorning travel bags and totes. A platform trainer in patent leather is a clear nod to the 90s but the overall take is decidedly fresh and modern — a wardrobe for international, original dressers.

Flowers, fruits and bold stripes characterise Ganni’s Spring/Summer 2018 collection: you’ll find juicy orange tulips on woven jacquard dresses, cherries on T-shirts, and thick stripes decorating jumpers, T-shirts and dresses. The mood is exuberant, reminiscent of Brit-Pop era leisurewear, of Natalie Portman’s iconic character in Léon, even of Madonna in her 80s heyday. There are lacy bodies, flower-covered bralets, and plenty of ruffles. Hero pieces include a delicate yellow skirt & dress in tulle featuring tiny anise flowers with beads; a smart dress and blazer combo in sporty grey check; and a casual tee-shirt stamped with the words ”Global Citizen”, a reference to the collection’s international creative melting pot.

 

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