• Dylan Tang

遇見野獸前的貝兒;Steventai 2017春夏女裝系列 / Pre-Beast Belle; Steventai SS17 collection


「看他走路奇怪的方式,我想他可能現在身體不舒服吧。看他的鼻子整個塞進書裡,他到底在做什麼白日夢」貝兒 - 美女與野獸

女孩穿著粉白色的上衣,有著憨厚的笑容或者懶散的打著哈欠,是steventai 品牌早期的繆思來源。在他2011年的畢業時裝秀,如同設計師對於成為目光焦點時的害臊,這成為 TAI 首次服裝系列的基本元素;為單純愛讀書的女孩喝采。

在他的世界裡,遇見野獸之前的貝兒,埋首書籍的模樣非常迷人。就像是1969年 戴著眼鏡的 Margret Hamilton;她有著古典迷人的智慧以及幽默風趣的個性,並且對於這個世界有著堅持頑強的樂觀天性。這樣子女性的服裝像是特別挑選過,衣櫥裡盡是實穿但是風格一致。

舉例來說,觸感如紙一般親薄、顏色如書本裡的紙一樣帶著優雅的粉白色;這樣子的呈現是使用Organza 透明硬紗來呈現、下擺的摺邊也如同書本時常出現的摺痕。所有的細節呈現沒有經過任何一道車縫,盡是手工出來的結果。

這些單純但是具有意義的設計都是靠著數位設計的方法來做事前的準備;例如精準的提花呈現。

Steventai 的二零一七春夏女裝系列 一層一層的堆疊;慶祝那些有著細緻心理但是同樣有著詩意古怪個性的女孩。

“Look there she goes, that girl is so peculiar. I wonder if she's feeling well. With a dreamy far off look. And her nose stuck in a book.” Belle - Beauty and the Beast

The nerd, smiling or yawning in pale pastel blouses, was steventai’s muse ever since the brand’s earliest days. As it’s in her nature to shy away from the spotlight, for the coming spring Tai leafs back to the character’s debut , in his 2011 graduation show , to properly celebrate the bookworm once more.

In his universe, she’s got the brainy small-town charm of pre-Beast Belle, as well as the geeky pride of a bespectacled Margaret Hamilton, standing in 1969 next to a pile of printed code almost as tall as she is. She’s an old-school intellectual with a sense of humour, an obstinate optimist with a paperback tucked into her high-waist trousers. Her wardrobe a more refined, more wearable, yet equally complex update on what she wore in 2011.

For example, the papery texture given by panels of fabric layered one upon the other like pages of a book, is reissued in lighter organza, patiently hand-cut on bias, then folded with zig-zag stitching across all hems, as painstakingly long a process as it sounds. Or a range of items are assembled without seams, all woven together from squares of net, with a tiny cotton ribbon.

A sense of ingenious innocence runs throughout, of pre-digital curiosity : like how the punch cards of the jacquard loom were conceptual precursor to the development of computer programming, steventai’s collection is meticulous, cerebral, and oddly poetic.

Official Website: http://steventai.co.uk/

Facebook: Steven Tai Studio

INSTAGRAM: @steventaistudio

Twitter: @steventaistudio

#fashion #london #LFW #SS17 #womenswear

© 2016 by TAIKER MAGAZINE

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