• Boba Tseng

Dior 形塑三位一體的世界觀/ 
Dior Shaping the Trinity World View

看見改革的力量


對時尚產業而言一成不變才是危機,在經過2020年的動盪洗禮,各個品牌也開始探討不同議題。有重新反思定位的、找尋品牌或設計初衷的,更有藉由疫情發揮的,每一個變化或大或小,在此刻都是新的嘗試,希冀從中找到過渡艱困時期的方法。同時這樣的變化,也影響著觀看者,得以去想像未來流行的樣貌。

成為Dior男裝設計師已三年的Kim Jones,每每推出新系列,都會成為當季話題。他精心策畫時裝秀裡的每個環節,從秀前在社群平台釋放訊息,或是大秀之後的媒體討論,都在他的掌握裡。而最新的Dior秋冬男裝,延續過去幾季的合作模式,邀請知名畫家Peter Doig來跨界,共同創作出屬於三者結合的系列。抑或說,Kim Jones巧妙的把畫家的世界,透過服裝轉化成讓觀看者更容易理解的概念,所以顯得獨特同時又保有Dior品牌精神。值得一提的是Peter Doig還為這個系列,改以版畫的技巧,完成嶄新的作品,當然也被Kim Jones運用到部分的款式細節中。

當然,靈感不僅是Peter Doig的畫作,Christian Dior先生曾主持的服裝發表會,所呈現的儀式感也啟發了Kim Jones。於是他回顧品牌典藏作品,將服裝史上留名的Bar Jacket細節,轉化包釦來使用;並借鑑60年代Marc Bohan所操刀的Dior高級訂製服,變身華麗的刺繡軍風大衣。在這之中,為了還原水彩畫的筆觸,特別使用馬海毛來編織出Peter Doig的畫作;或是利用緹花技巧,凸顯水墨暈染的效果,成為外套、夾克的面料。而Christian Dior先生鍾愛的玫瑰、星形,以及愛犬圖案,則以鈕扣或是拼貼的方式點綴在服裝的各處。這系列的另一亮點就是Peter Doig還邀請多年好友,也是英國製帽大師Stephen Jones設計多款毛氈帽,並添加手工繪製的細節,以畫作、回憶和Dior的連結為創作靈感,完整品牌對於藝術和工藝恆久不滅的熱情。



Kim Jones, who has been a Dior menswear designer for three years, will become a topic of the season whenever he launches a new collection. He meticulously planned every aspect of the fashion show, from the release of information on the social platform before the show, or the media discussion after the big show. The latest Dior menswear for Autumn/Winter continues the cooperation model of the past few seasons, inviting the well-known painter Peter Doig to cross the border and jointly create a collection that is a combination of the three. In other words, Kim Jones has cleverly transformed the world of painters through clothing into concepts that are easier for viewers to understand, so they look unique while retaining the spirit of the Dior brand. It is worth mentioning that Peter Doig also used the technique of printmaking for this collections to complete brand-new work. Of course, it was also used by Kim Jones in some of the style details.


Of course, the inspiration is not only the paintings of Peter Doig, but also the costume presentation hosted by Christian Dior. The sense of ceremony presented also inspired Kim Jones. So, he reviewed the works of the brand's collections, transformed the details of the Bar Jacket from the history of clothing into buckles and used them; and borrowed from the Dior haute couture uniforms made by Marc Bohan in the 1960s, and transformed them into gorgeous embroidered military coats. Among them, in order to restore the brushstrokes of watercolour paintings, mohair was used to weave Peter Doig's paintings; or the jacquard technique was used to highlight the effect of ink smudging, which became the fabric of coats and jackets. And Mr. Christian Dior's favourite roses, stars, and dog patterns are dotted around the clothes in the form of buttons or collages. Another highlight of this collections is that Peter Doig also invited friends made over many years, also British hat master Stephen Jones to design a variety of felt hats, and add hand-painted details, with paintings, memories and the connection of Dior as inspiration, complete the brand for art and the demonstrate an enduring passion for craftsmanship.



完整內容詳見臺客雜誌第8期

All content is in TAIKER Magazine ISSUE08





#Dior #KimJones #AW21 #Fashion