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  • Dylan Tang

Christopher Ræburn 二戰的幽靈軍團/ Christopher Ræburn AW17 ''Cut’N Shut''

Christopher Ræburn 二零一七年秋冬男裝系列;靈感來自世界二次大戰時畫家 Ellsworth Kelly 所待過的 “幽靈軍團”。以野外偽裝的印花作為此次設計的重點。

主題命名為『 Cut'N Shut』,這次的男裝系列展現出軍人在戰爭時實用的單品、服裝卻也添加了幾分時尚感,Ræburn 的伸展台上充滿著厚重的大衣外套以及卡其色、灰色散播全場,再消費主義至上的現在,Ræburn 似乎將戰爭時的物資短缺和時尚的汰舊換新做了完美的交織。

Ræburn 的主秀使用了英國品牌 Clarks 的鞋款,以及 Avery Dennison RBIS的科技技術。發出螢光的綠色以及在模特兒背後的野外偽裝印花背包,都是Christopher Ræburn在視覺上震懾全場的巧思,儘管在男裝週辦秀的Christopher Ræburn 他所推出的商品卻也屬於中性服飾,如果你喜歡在衝突間交織的服裝,或者喜歡機能性的保暖衣物,那麼Christopher Ræburn 的秋冬AW17 是你最好的選擇。


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Influenced by the WW2 ghost army of Ellsworth Kelly, Christopher Ræburn’s FW17 features camouflage and deception from print, to shape to form.

The collection titled ‘Cut’N Shut’ showcased utilitarian military style garments that utilise the title quite literally. Ræburn favours function in a time of consumerist consumption, filling the runway with thick appliquéd duffle coats, khaki anorak jackets, grey woollen tracksuits, camouflage padded bomber jackets and lose fitting cropped trousers, many inspired by his remade, reduce, recycle ethos as he deconstructs and up-cycles parachutes and bomb disposal uniforms.

A regular for collaboration, Christopher Ræburn continues his relationship with Clarks shoes and Avery Dennison RBIS, as well as introducing Eastpack to his creations. Hefty fluorescent green and camouflage Eastpack backpacks completed the models outfits, ranging in shape from box form to a true emphasis of the theme of deception with chameleon shaped side bags. Ultimately, Ræburn creates a visually stunning, ethically conscious and functional, unisex collection highlighting that fashion can both be aware and functional whilst also exciting.

Mandarin: Dylan Tang

Photography: Christopher Ræburn

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