• Dylan Tang

[回顧] SIBLING 的七八零年代 / [Before SS17] SIBLING; The beautiful 70s and 80s


SIBLING 對於流行文化的喜好已經是一個秘密了,對於七零以及八零年代偏好更是無庸置疑的喜愛,或許時下的名流現象受到推崇,但是跟過去的年代相比似乎也無法相提並論;二零一六的秋冬系列就是SIBLING對於當時的流行文化代表;Grace Jones 以及 Jean Michel Basquiat 的致敬。

這次的系列可以看出受到 Basquiat 極大的影響,但是 Jones 的專輯封面色調卻是這次的主題色;具有酸度的黃色以及血液般的紅色。印花上則是對於他們的另一種皇家藍以及皇家灰作為基本的色調。

SIBLING 一直以來對於顏色都有著自由意志般的奔放,對於喇叭褲以及寬版剪裁的西裝外套就像把時間拉回八零年代的紐約西區第八街,而且面料上則是使用法國公司 Dormeuil 的高級布料來製成。對於SIBLING 來說 Basquit 的藝術品有著狂放不羈的風格,因此在面料上的剪裁以及服裝的製程都可以發現SIBLING 跳出傳統時裝的設計;手工針織的外套搭配落下過大的袖子、以及羊毛製成的人字圖騰腰帶,都是對於這個瘋狂藝術家的致敬。

至於 Jones 的個性則可以在SIBLING 這次秋冬系列男裝的高腰短袖以及印有品牌名稱的襪子、手套以及臉上護具反映出來。拳擊手的戰袍以及搭配的短褲則是混著女性化的外觀;對於藝術家來說許多混沌不清的個性似乎也是這麼一回事;Basquiat 自身的個性、Jones 在Pull Up To The Bumper 裡受到爭議的器具抑或者是 Andy Warhol 在1985年由攝影師 Michael Halsbland 所拍下的照片都有著這樣的氛圍。

男性以及女性間的模糊界線一直都是SIBLING的品牌DNA ;就像是 DISCO 跟 HIP HOP、男孩間的柔和以及陽剛都是這類的衝突感。

秋天即將到來,如果對於服裝的搭配仍然不知所措,不妨參考SIBLING 對於男裝造型的呈現。

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By now it’s no secret that SIBLING are obsessed with the pop culture of the seventies and eighties, and why wouldn’t they be – perhaps no other era speaks to the current age of excess and celebrity adoration quite so knowingly. For Autumn they turn to two icons who subverted the worlds of music and art like no others: Grace Jones and Jean Michel Basquiat.

It’s the feeling and look of Basquiat which informs the collection most. The ‘Jones’ colour palette, taken from her album covers, of primary colours – acid yellow and blood red - shoot through traditional patterns, which use as their base the more muted royal blue and grey.

These colours play across the loose shapes Basquiat made his trademark. Baggy pleated trousers and cropped wide suit jackets he might have bought from Flip, the iconic boutique on West 8th Street in the eighties, are re made here in luxury Dormeuil fabrics. The SIBLING Fair Isle finds inspiration in his chaotic painting style and is based upon random notebook doodles, a graphic hand knit is the same pattern cropped and enlarged, whilst knitted jackets with drop shoulders, overly long sleeves and washed wool chevron tie belts reflect his loose personal style. So loose that there’s a Buffalo Blanket skirt in a fair isle called ‘Fab 5’, fastened with knitted military insignia.

In a nod to Jones’ combative image are SIBLING Boxing Shorts (a classic men’s boxer with a high waist in SIBLING iconic leopard print) and logo sports socks, worn with matching knitted gloves and face protectors. They’re the boys Jones would’ve sparred with in her ‘Pull Up To The Bumper’ fighting gear or even Basquiat himself, similarly clad in boxing shorts, arms crossed with Andy Warhol, in a photograph from 1985 by Michael Halsbland. A fine knitted lace glittering Boxing Gown with matching shorts appears to be a feminine take on the uber macho sporting look and yet is a look so often seen in the ring.

This clash of female and male is at the heart of SIBLING - Disco vs. Hip Hop, hard vs. soft, as encapsulated by the boys they create.

Summer has gone, if you still have no idea what's your style for the following autumn, why don't you follow SIBLING's AW16 Menswear?

#fashion #london #runway #Menswear

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