• Samuel Balkin, Bobo Law

來自約克郡男人的完美設計-Edward Crutchley/ A Perfect Design from the man of Yorkshire; Edward Crutchley


Edward Crutchley, 在他的2017年春夏男裝中成功表現出他對手工技藝的推崇!從英國約克郡出身的他,對於手作藝術更是英倫時尚近25年最為複雜的設計。

肖像與刺繡的結合是他這次春夏男裝的重點展示 『約克郡男孩的座右銘』以及『山谷精神』;四種人角色更是貫穿主軸的亮點。“石像芬克斯“ 就是一個可以代表約克郡的代表人物之一。然而;Edward 對於服裝的設計總是專注在自身的經驗與環境帶給他的感受;有人曾經說過他的服裝常常具有亞洲風情,但是Edward 表示:「這從來不是我主觀下的決定,這些決定都是自然而然的產生而來。」

對向世界的共通點即是服裝,而這也表現在因為 ”感覺“而產生關聯的 Edward 春夏設計-提花 (代表西方)與刺繡(代表東方)。

這次系列主要在英國生產但是卻有著日本刺繡協會的加持;這樣的合作更讓他的手作訂製服服有著更加敬佩的元素。因為不僅是織品上他的堅持,其中他更讓人們了解到『你可以因為為了更好而加以選擇』

『做出一件衣服前,你必會想像出他穿起來的模樣』是Edward 對於服裝與身體的空間表現最好的證據。Edward Crutchley 的二零一七年春夏男裝有著極大的空間表現在細節裡頭:乳膠,是他這次服裝設計的秘密之一,給我們簡單俐落的感受就像是英國約克郡男人的完美風格。

Edward Crutchley, a man raised in Yorkshire who loves and admires craftsmanship presents his SS17 collection revealing to us his own craft. A collection that is the most complicated design that the British supplier has ever made in its 25 years.

One of the key iconographies that the viewers will notice is the embroideries throughout the collection of the “Yorkshire Man’s Motto” and “The Spirits of The Dales” which are four characters that have their own stories and legends from the countryside of Yorkshire. One of them (The Stone Sphinx) was even near Edwards’s mother’s house! You would probably would have guest by now that it’s a literal inspiration from Yorkshire. However, Edward focused more on “that feeling” of the environment that he experienced being in the moment. Some would believe that his work looks asian but says “it’s never a conscious decision, it just always happens”. A mutual connection between both sides of the world that seems to be present due to an element. This “feeling” that he tries to give off to his customer is fused with other elements of Oversized Checks, Florial Jacquard, Tie Dye and Arashi Shibori.

Majority of the collection have been made in England except for the Tie Dye’s which are made in Kyoto by the Head of the Shibori Guild. A contact he has kept through his admiration of their craft when working with them before. Not only this but different other textile companies around the world allowing Edward to pinpoint which one he desires to choose.

Edward’s clear interest in space between the body and the clothes is evident. Liking the idea of dressing the person you imagine you are and create that. The ideology within the collection, is expressed as he plays with the space making really big and tiny shapes using a wide range of materials such as Latex. Latex that is hand tie dyed creating a textile that feels hand made. How did they make it? It’s a secret. A look that is clean with hidden fastening making it sharp and simple. Modern. A target that the Yorkshire man has aimed at perfectly.

#LCM #SS17 #fashion #Yorkshire #EdwardCrutchley #Menswear

© 2016 by TAIKER MAGAZINE

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