- Dylan Tang
Kiko Kostadinov；死而後生 / Kiko Kostadinov; Two Death, Three Birth
「我電影裡的畫面都會先在我的腦海裡面誕生，然後逝去在文字上；最後又復活在我的演員以及我最後採用的影像裡。可以說被電影殺死但又在適當的情境下復活在螢幕上。就是美麗的花之餘水一樣。」—Robert Bresson
這一段對白剛好應對到Kiko Kostadinov 的新系列 『Two Death, Three Birth』；這個系列也是他在倫敦男裝週第一次發表的服裝作品。
Kiko Kostadinov 以往的系列著重在於具有功能性的服裝上；例如，清潔工的衣服，醫生的醫師袍。-而這次二零一七的春夏男裝系列；Kiko Kostadinov 呈現出來的是摩登風格的工作服，而他所選用的材質則是 Tyvek® （特衛強）以及英國百年機能性品牌 Ventile® （文泰爾）為基石；顏色使用的是木炭黑、海軍藍以及白色。服裝上的剪裁則是呼應他的主題 『Two Death, Three Brith』做出解構的剪裁。
整體風格展現在佇立數個散發強光的直立燈以及掛著照射強烈白光的散光燈下；模特兒依序的環繞會場之餘，到了最後緊鄰在直立燈旁凸顯服裝剪裁與使用的紡織品上。
‘My movie is born first in my head, dies on paper; is resuscitated by the living persons and real objects I use, which are killed on film but, placed in a certain order and projected onto a screen, com not life again like flowers in water.’ —Robert Bresson
This quote is the thing which leading us Kiko Kostadinov’s debit collection at London Collections Men SS17; Two Death, Three Brith.
Kiko Kostadinov’s collections continue focusing on functional uniforms; such as cleaner’s shirts, doctor’s lab coat…etc.; Therefore, Mr. Kostadinov’s latest collection in LCM SS17 showcased as his modern style work-uniforms. He utilising materials; for instance, Tyvek® and Ventile®. Colour of Two Death, Three Brith are navy, charcoal and white. His apparel’s cutting is link with his topic Two Death, Three Brith which means ‘anti-decorative’ approach his design.
The vibes of his presentation were very unique and phenomenal. Models were walk around in the space where under the bright white light but fully shadow. In the end, his models were stand by the light and let his guest had able to look careful what materials he used and how he created the beautiful lines on his collection.
