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  • Samuel Balkin

Universal Works和Allan Buxton的春夏男裝革命/Universal Works and Allan Buxton’s Revolution!

當我們緩慢地走進Universal Works 的展示空間裡時,我們感受到世紀中的古巴、Saul Bass風格的圖像設計、五零年代節奏的衝擊,還有一股革命的氣氛。上述文字的表達全部都呈現在Universal Works 的二零一七春夏系列的男裝作品裡;服裝的剪裁搭配佇立在地板的黑色人形立牌、概念短片裡暫時停止動作的人物,整個會場的氛圍都在Universal Works 想傳達的概念裡。你可以說這是純藝術的展現,但又與時尚巧妙的結合。

Universal Works 的春夏二零一七年男裝系列採用了:橄欖綠、海軍藍、白色、米色以及曝曬在不同陰影的褐色;這些都吻合了他們想要表達來自五零至六零年代的時尚色彩,並且間接地表現出革命時許多服裝會採用的色彩。不僅僅是服裝,在其他方面所下的功夫也更是精彩;腳上布鞋的色彩吻合上衣、俐落的背心以及大衣以及頂上的帽子更是!以上服裝的表現都毫無遺漏的表達出五零年代的古巴革命風格,甚至加上了現代的剪裁以及設計。

當觀眾站在這個與刻板印象不同的時裝秀時,清楚地看見每一件衣服的細節正是這種時裝展現的精彩之處。 Allan Buxton 和他的模特兒站在紅線設下的專屬空間裡,背後印上的停格影像組成的動畫,整個時間就宛如革命般的嚴肅屏息。

We enter in a space of time as we watch and feel the inspired elements of the 1950’s Beat movement, mid century Cuba, Saul Bass’ influential graphic design work and of course the revolution. These reflect back at us through the design of the clothing, the cut out images of expressionistic humans with records that have fallen on the floor and a projected collaborative stop motion film to showcase their collection in a more innovative and creative way. It is quite something to see! It is almost as if it was an exhibition of pure art and genius as they challenge the limits of fashion and stop motion by combining them together. This is something that both sides of the collaboration are trying to achieve as they have created five different films.

The colour palettes chosen which are olive green, brown (different shades), navy blue, white and beige are evident that it falls into the timeline of the 1950’s and 1960’s, similar to the events that are highlighted, occurred. Trainers also following the colour palettes. Sharp blazers and coats, jaunty hats - a famous accessory during the 50’s that represent the emotions of each individual. Lapel/Poet collars, an element visible to the collection that mid century cubans used quite often.

As the audience stand there stuck in time, you could have a look at the whole collection in closer detail as a whole. Allan Buxton and his models ascend from the crowd one by one to stand in the middle of the exhibition-esque space whilst the stop motion film carries on playing. After a moment, we watch carefully as they disperse into the crowd slowly. A round of applause was given as we come to appreciate the work he has produced and his ability to apply the events as his influential elements.

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