• Samuel Balkin, Dylan Tang

Matthew Miller 的時尚暴風雨 LCM SS17 / Matthew Miller: Tempest; Mushroom Clouds and Black Butterflies Ever


Matthew Miller 二零一七年的春夏服裝發表會,隨處充滿著蕈狀雲的圖案,且整場服裝秀的餘韻就像暴風雨一般衝擊著現場的每個人。全新的服裝系列有一著同一個共通點,就是在單品上鑲著的徽章和T-shirt 上的蕈狀雲;而整體的造型,因為兩件式的搭配、長與短層次,讓模特兒都有如飛舞的黑色蝴蝶一樣環繞舞台。

蕈狀雲以及黑色的蝴蝶代表著不幸以及死亡,Matthew Miller 走秀的模特兒都帶著嚴肅的表情以及臉部些許的被頭髮遮住,整場的氣氛就如同設計師 Miller 想表達的一樣滲透在現場的每個觀眾心裡。設計師Miller 在的繆思來自於次文化的油漬文化以及上個世代對於知識社會運動,這些現象也成就這個槁木死灰般的氛圍;但是 Matthew Miller 在開場後隨機將氣氛轉換在他的設計單品上,將主題帶往摧毀後的重造,也就是現在世代年輕人對於自由的嚮往。

除了服裝上的表現,音樂上的元素也是 Miller 在倫敦男裝週這場秀的重點之一;Negasonic Teenage Warhead 是來自九零年代關於沮喪以及不幸地的歌曲,也不謀而合的交織在 Matthew Miller 想表達出對於被稱為反叛世代對於自由渴望的印象。

皮件、徽章飾品跟毫無生氣的模特兒表情是這場秀的整體呈現,這也將整場秀的討論帶出場外,宛如一個世代運動。

Mushroom clouds, a word that defines the smoke of an explosion spreading across all of Matthew Miller’s collection. Whether on T-shirts or being pinned on the back of a coat. One thing for sure is that its at least on one of the badges of the young models that were shown. Not only a mushroom cloud were shown, but a black butterfly which some required to have two pieces of badges to complete the image.

This could only signify death and misfortune which further supports the theme of the show as all facial expressions of models being lifeless or either partly covered by their face with hair. Why lifeless? It could only be that the sub culture of grunge and goth have always been frowned upon by society especially the elder generations due to their lack of understanding of its movement. Matthew Miller sticks all of its theme to shirts, T shirts , badges and coats and present it to us proudly as a freedom of expression by the youth.

Another element that was visible is the “Negasonic Teenage Warhead”, a song written by a band in the 1990’s where they tried to show they didn't like songs that are written about depression and unhappiness to be given to its fans. An idea that Matthew Miller likes as he is inspired by the ideas of Youth Rebellion and Freedom of Expression. Maybe it could also be a reference from the Marvel Character in a recent marvel movie who is also called Negasonic Teenage Warhead. A character that tends to wear goth/grunge style (leather and predominantly the colour black) with a patient and humorous attitude.

Leather, badges, and plain facial expressions were key to show the theme of the show as the audience gather outside the show keenly to discuss about what they have just seen.

#Fashion #MatthewMiller #LCM #SS17 #TAIKER #London #Menswear

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