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  • Tracy Wang

Nigel Cabourn 的二戰精神 “The Dessert Rats” 春夏17新設計/ Nigel Cabourn “The Dessert Rats” LCM SS17

直擊Cabourn 2017春夏系列“The Dessert Rats”秀場,中央的兩位模特兒無疑地吸引眾人的目光,他們藉由圍繞式地方式將各式各項的新系列展示在秀場裡,在視覺上我們似乎也變成服裝的一部分,這種距離也讓我們足以好好感受每個單品的細節。Cabourn不忘乎的帶著他親切的微笑不斷的向大家介紹他的設計靈感與系列,視覺回到模特兒身上,另一個男模出現繼續為大家呈現不同的服裝特色,眼睛被這些設計吸引到忙不過來,漸漸的人潮湧入,把秀場變得非常「熱」鬧,好像真的在沙漠裡看秀展,在滿頭大汗想出去透口氣時,意外發現這些服裝並沒有帶給模特兒一滴汗水,原來Cabourn呈現了一款適合穿在不同環境的款式,除此之外這些來自世界各地的嘉賓將他們獨有的時尚品味豐富了秀場。

“The Dessert Rats”取自第二次世界大戰的英國軍隊制服的特色作為這次主要的設計靈感,因此吸引了不少嘉賓一探,藉由場地的佈置與圖像資料清楚地證明了他的設計與70年前的服裝並無太大的差異,像是軍靴和後背包都散發一出一種濃厚的歷史味道,大口袋的設計更是與二戰的英國軍服相符契合。

就在快結束的時候,英國著名的男模David Gandy主動向Cabourn詳談瞭解這次設計重點與細節,沒有人敢打斷他們的談話,只是默默的在旁邊拍上幾張Gandy的照片,或是繼續欣賞Cabourn的每個作品,當他們談話結束後,Cabourn還是立馬回到中央再一次的好好招呼與感謝來參與他秀展的嘉賓。

Photographed by Sam Balkin

Entering the showcase, two live models are at the centre of attention attracting all its visitors with Cabourn’s newest collection “The Dessert Rats, SS17”. As they reveal to us the detailed pieces of work, the wide variety of the collection are hung up all around the room as if we were to wear them as part of the uniform for the event. It gives us the chance to investigate ourselves the quality of each piece. As Cabourn talks to its guests constantly with his generous smile, another live model appears expanding the collection furthermore. More and more guests start to come in, making the room hot like a dessert.

Whilst some guests decide to stand out to get some fresh air, the same models seem to have not move from their spot without a break of sweat which lead us to realise about the suitability of the collection in a different environment. A wide variety of guests are visible while they bring their own sense of fashion from different parts of the world creating a unique mixture.

The British army outfits during the World War are clearly seen as the influential elements that have lead these guests here. Different other items and iconographies support the idea as bags and boots during this time period were present. Even leading to the size of pockets on some shirts are quite identical to some army outfits in the past. Near the end, Cabourn was approached by David Gandy (successful English model) who was keen on discussing about the collection for a lengthy time. No one daring to interrupt their conversation, guests continue on looking at Cabourn’s work or take photos of Gandy from a distance. When they had finished their conversation, Gandy leaves swiftly. Cabourn once again carried on to greet his guests kindly.

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